My notes are very basic compared to Terra Perma’s links below. There is a video below where Charles explains it too.

– DEG Wicking Bed Workshop and Team Building Day
– Wicking Olive Barrel Pots
– Intelligently Designed Urban Foodscapes

– Bentonite clay swells 6 times and goes to where the leak is to block the drainage. Note: It does not stay vertical so make sure it’s for the bottom. (Makes the cheapest kitty litter too).

– Upside down flower pots with woodchips around is a good set up for the bottom.

– Liner between reservoir and soil to avoid the silt going down but not necessary.

– FIFO wprlers have wicking beds with a feed float like toilets so when the water level goes down it automatically tops up and they connect it to a few beds (bathroom sinks) so when they’re back all they have to do is harvest.

– In winter the drain needs to be made smaller so the nutrients are not lost. Worms also use it and their castings can block the drains so beware of the size.

– Don’t use grey water.

– Mulch the top layer not only for evaporation but to block UV too.

– Blue barrels can be used but do your research on the chemicals otherwise stick to brown olive barrels.

– See plant placement figure in one of the pdfs.

– Coarser/Larger woodchips str better to use (lasts 2 years usually).

– Fit in the watering pipe on the opposite side of the drain and you can use a distribution pipe too if the bed is big.

– Potting mix to be used as the nutrients will be held in the bottom.

– For olive barrels check that the rubber on the lid is not twisted or messed up and seals properly.

– Good for high water needs and not deep-rooted plants.

– Don’t go for smaller than 13 mm drain holes.

Wicking Pots – Inspection of Reservoir Area