(Full video below the summary)

You’ll be pruning 90% (of the BUDS), it may seem a lot but it will be worth it.

The trunk will be the oldest part. The canes were new growth last year. Spurs are a darker colour and they’re thicker and they have canes coming out of them. The canes are where the fruit are going to grow. A nice can will have a good colour and will put out shoots. The leaves will emerge from the cane and where the fruit comes will be a tiny flower which you most probably wont even be able to tell is a flower. It will only happen on last years wood so you don’t want to cut all the way back to the trunk.

They haven’t mentioned it yet but pruning should be doing after leaf fall.

There are 2 types of pruning – spur pruning and cane pruning. Different varieties do better with different types. If you don’t know it’s best to go for cane pruning.

A cordon is like a trunk but it’s lateral. From the cordon you’ll have spurs. Prune back to spurs on the cordon every year. The aim is to prune so as to form cordons. To keep it simple cut your cordon back and remove all the weak looking wood after how big you like it and then snip away top and bottom of the cordon.

So cut all the deadwood off first. Cut so there is 2 buds per spur. You want about 30 to 40 buds/fruiting wood going in opposite directions (think of them as the notches on the branch). Get rid of ones that are too close to the ground or will not go where you want to train them to grow.

Remember if the vine has too much fruit then it will not have enough energy to grow good fruit.

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Class: Pruning Grape Vines Beginners Guide

Related:
– Fruit Tree Pruning with Peter Coppin at North Perth Community Garden
– Tree Pruning 101 – City of Stirling & Fiona Blackham of Gaia Permaculture